Walk into the woods.

Keep walking. Walk off tracks. Do not plan where you are going. Take whatever directions appeal in the moment. Keep walking. When, without realizing you are lost, its then your adventure begins.

Monday, June 28, 2010

The Electric Grandmother.

Went back out to West Kelly with the intentions of finishing a recent project. After some touch up cleaning in the upper section I was psyched to try and climb it. I had been thinking positive about the moves for almost three days and I think, on some level, I knew I was going to do it.

The climb moves out a steep bulge to some really small holds (my anti-style), after a few bumps through some more razor edges you have to top out through some slopers and delicate slab moves. Thankfully I had a few extra pads and Doug was willing to give out some ground support. (I really didnt want to fall onto 3 huge logs)


Here is some video from the first ascent of The Electric Grandmother.


Thanks Casey for your
excellent video work...



Sunday, June 27, 2010

West Kelly

Here are a few shots from climbing today in West Kelly. It was warm at first but luckily with a little bit of cloud cover the temperatures dropped and the lighting made for some great late afternoon bouldering photos.

Casey and Doug on Clockwork Orange


Kelly Canyon. NorAZ

Here is a few clips of some of the bouldering that I have established in Kelly Canyon.

enjoy.


Saturday, June 26, 2010

Into the Wild

Headed down to Oak Creek Canyon to finally get on a route that I had put on the top of my "to do list"...

Into the Wild

The route was established by a couple of my climbing friends so I was fired up to give it a go. I was able to rally a couple of climbing friends and head down for a party of 3 late afternoon ascent...

Since we knew that the route would be in tremendous heat until the early afternoon we decided to wait until the afternoon to head down. Luckily we did because the temps were high and the sun was unrelenting. Since we just hit the Summer solstice the sun was high and beaming directly down on us. HOOTTT!!

John and John
racking up


The approach is one of the easiest of Sedona, only about 15 minutes from West Fork although parking at West Fork is $10 now for parking. Highway robbery!!!

After the quick approach through West Fork we hit the first pitch. It was luckily just hidden from the sun even though the first ledge was still cooking. After busting up the first pitch we were stuck in the sun... we moved quick and found the shade for the rest of the climb.

Base of Pitch 1

Amazing climbing. Technical and balancy.... Loved it.
Thanks to Kelly Canyon for teaching me all I need to know about Coconino Sandstone climbing.

Bailed off the ledge and were home before sunset.

Back at the base
ready to head home.

Wednesday, June 23, 2010

Some Thoughts...

It has been some time since my last post. Not sure if I was just lazy or if I was just too busy...hopefully more of the latter.

A lot has seemed to change in the past weeks...
Ups and Downs and all Arounds...
Whenever life gets a little hectic it seems there is always something to be learned.

The start of Summer here in Flagstaff has seemed quite delayed. The weather has been kind and the temperatures have, for the most part, been seasonably low. This is a great thing if you enjoy being outside as much as I do. Also with several special people working and living away for the Summer I have had lots of time to myself.

With the start of Summer it meant that it was time to move back into the American Flagship.

Thats right...
my Van.

Living out is something that I have been doing for the past year and it has really been quite enjoyable. I think that there is something to be said spending as much time as you can allow outside and with no one but your Self. It has allowed me to wake up each morning with the sunrise and start my day with whatever pace I see prudent. Some mornings I simply just drink my coffee and read my book (finishing up "Love in the Time of Cholera". Great read!) and on other mornings I of coarse spend my time on the rock, or slack lining, or...running, or...well you get the point.
Its actually quite convenient to be able to just wake up where ever I want to be in the morning!

After a few early visits to Kelly Canyon West I was pretty excited to devote my climbing time to the area and help clean and establish as many new rock climbs as doable. After a few lack luster days on my project I was ready to try and finish it even though I was not feeling incredibly psyched. I was lucky enough to rally a few of my friends to come out with their crash pads and lend me a bomber spot. With 6 crash pads and 5 spotters I was ready to commit and finish it... and honestly I just wanted it done. On my third attempt I climbed to the top of the boulder and prepared myself for the last and hardest move of the climb.
Earlier when I had cleaned the boulder I had feared that the last move would be the definite crux and that if I failed to grab it correctly I would have the chance of taking a weird and potentially bad fall (I would fall 24ish feet to the ground...)
Of coarse my fears where realized...
I fell in such a wacky way that I ended up landing somewhat on my spotter and pretty badly on my left leg. I instantly fell to the ground and felt a little pain in my left knee. I instantly thought that I had injured it although I was questioning how bad it was. I was able to walk around and climb the rest of the day with little to no pain but through out the day though I had noticed some intense swelling on the back side of my knee. At this point I became a little bit more concerned with the situation. I am extremely active in my life and with work and cannot imagine not being mobile. I also do not have any form of medical insurance. I was instantly thinking about the price of my doctor visits, MRIs, and surgury from my last knee injury... I simply could not afford to be injured.

After several days of intense R.I.C.E. (Rest, Ice, Compression, Elevate) I was beginning to think that there could actually be a chance that it wasnt completely injured. The initial pain was starting to subside even though the strange swelling remained. I tried to stay off of it the first 2 weeks and I was forcing myself to wear a special knee brace anytime I was walking.
Babying the heck out of it maybe why I am able to walk around right now...
either way...

It was a humbling reminder that I am not invincible and sometimes its just not the right time.

A few shots...


With the worst part of the injury behind me it was time to also start taking on the busy Summer work schedule. This Summer is the first time I will be trying to tackle both the Summer Camp schedule and learning to be a new Guide. Luckily the time between Ski Patrol and Guiding allowed me to prepare myself and be ready for the busy schedule. It has been a bit exhausting at times although it could never be a "bad gig". I am constantly surrounded by the things I love in life. Just today I was able to be outside working with my team at a climbing area and tomorrow I get to do a demonstration on slack lining at Lake Mary.
It not such a bad to thing to do work that just doesn't seem like work.

And of coarse there is the Schultz Fire...

For up to date images of the size and magnitude of the Schultz Fire click... here.

Currently the fire is about 20% contained but has already burned over 10,000 acres. It has been quite the scene up here in Flagstaff. The luminous smoke cloud that can be seen at any point in the day seems to keep you reminded of what is going on. All of the hard working Fire Fighters that have helped fight the fire in 30 hour shifts and the overall dedication of hundreds of Fire Fighters to stopping it. They have been able to keep the spread somewhat localized and away from major trial systems which I enjoy to use and have helped save the homes to some 1000 Flag residents. Most of all I am thankful that the fire has seemed to spare the Inner Basin of the San Francisco Peaks.

Still there for now.

Mostly though...
The luminous cloud of soot and ash is a plain and blatant reminder of human stupidity.

I have seen the signs of the curse daily. From simple lack of common sense to the shear complacency in action and responsibility. Humans are failing on all levels.

What has happened?
What has begun this total turn in our evolution??
How is it that the most advanced species of the planet cant even seem to protect our only home???
This reminds me of a Einstein quote...
"Two things are infinite: the universe and human stupidity; and I am not sure about the former."

In the last month I have witnessed...
Families swimming several meters away from areas in which they have defecated on and labeled with copious amounts of T.P. and a rock.
The pure idiotic defacement of a beautiful areas by groups of paint ballers...
The unbelievable and saddening rape of the National Forest as a shooting range and "weekend getaway"
and of coarse our 3 local fires!!!
all products of human stupidity.

I am not sure who to blame...
Poor education?
Parents?
Society?
You?
Me?

We have evolved and created a disregard to the basic survival ticks of the human brain.
I cant help but think we are the creators of our own ruin.

Its time to get smart and think smart.
Be proactive and not reactive.

Enough for now...





.

Tuesday, June 22, 2010

Schultz Fire

I have not been able to document the fire as well as I would want but luckily some friend and people of Flagstaff have done a great job!

Check out these few blogs for unbelievable photos and video from the Schultz fire...

thesearchforsomething...

Dan Greenspan's blog

azdailysun


Hopefully more updates soon...

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

A Formal Introduction

Introducing... the next chapter in Nor AZ bouldering

The Human Wasteland Project.

I luckily looked up
before my last attempt.


Peas in a Pod and Top Notch.

The Groover.

The Nose Knows.

Nose Goes.

Checking out some
highball potential.